Lycra and Fishing Don’t Mix
As a home lover, it’s not often I leave. Going away and having nothing to do but just BE, is a treat. I visited Gardenstown on a girls trip years ago and loved it. On that ‘shoulder’ of Scotland that runs east from Inverness to Frazerburgh it’s easy to miss. Spook had never seen much of it so we were on the same page. Good road network for a pushbike (Formatine and Buchan Way - the old railway track) and Pennan is the village that was so cleverly super-imposed on Camusdarrach beach in Local Hero - the film that inspired me to live in the west highlands. The dog is on the same page as long as we are on it and there’s snacks.
Particularly inspiring is that it’s early November and there’s no one here. The dog thinks he owns the place and has full rights to the only cat in the village which inspires his morning and evening sojourns. The cat always wins because the dog’s not very smart.
Despite there being nothing to report, It was important that I call Burt Lancaster in his heavenly residence to let him know what was happening in the skies.
Spook was just pleased that Burt had survived his mother’s twintub. When they were filming out at Arisaig in 1982, she sold it to the film crew because whenever anyone used it in the Munro household they got an electric shock. She belatedly worried that she might become responsible for Burt’s death in the simple act of washing his pants.
The washing lines are on the sea front as no one has a garden. The houses are gable end onto the sea and tucked under the cliff. There is no sea view from the houses so they create their own wee views.
The dog has become devoted to Spook. Usually he can’t see past me but we know he has a very jealous streak. I suppose you could call it protective if we were to give him credit. But I’m not sure how much credit we can give on this occasion.
Because we think he’s got a problem with the Wally Dug.
In Local Hero, the boat was called The Silver Dollar. “And are there 2 g’s in bugger off” was a quote. There are definitely two n’s in Pennan.
Gardenstown and Crovie were as pretty as I’d remembered.
Quite Spanish at times, Spook thought.
While I luxuriated in peace and idle pursuits in the cottage Spook made his way as far as Frazerburgh and as planned, phoned for a lift back. He was at the South Harbour and said he’d just wait for me in the pub. Then he called back and said he wouldn’t. He was too scared.
It was this or the Dolphin Lounge of the Balaclava Hotel. I wondered why he hadn’t included The Royal Hotel as a possible option.
Being right on that corner tip of the coastal shoulder it seems entirely possible that we might never have seen Fraserburgh, or The Broch, as it’s known locally. There is something exotic about its huge fishing culture. It’s a place you hear about on the news and usually for the controversy of fishing laws, and Brexit.
The Ship Inn is the lit up place across the harbour in this pic. Looks perfectly inviting if you’ve been at sea for days but perhaps less so wearing Lycra cycling shorts.
To the right at the back of this photo is some of the pelagic fleet. I’d never heard of them - the huge boats that fish for mackerel, herring and blue whiting. Not remotely like life on the prawn fishing boats, these are fitted with cinema, restaurant and cabins with en-suite!!
“Really,” I said to Spook, “you probably missed a cultural treat by not having a pint with the fishermen.” But on the way out of town, I changed my mind…
